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Shanghai not Shainghai


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Less honking.  Cleaner streets.  Tall glass office buildings…lots of them.  Narrow streets lined with peeling-bark trees I’ve seen only in southern France.  Street intersections with 3 or more streets merging at peculiar angles.  A white female doctor from Pennsylvania consulting me on my last Japanese Ensephilitus shot.  Luxury apartments.  Single family house neighborhoods.  Coldsto, WAIT, WHAT?  Coldstone.  Whoa.  Shock.  SHANGHAI.

Lucky for Jim, our resident icecream obsessor, there is a Coldstone down the street.  However American prices (27 yuan for a small cup - US$3.60) turn him right back to his standard cool treat - the Magnum icecream bar (4 yuan).

We’ve had the great blessing of staying in one of the nicest Chinese apartments I’ve ever seen for the last 4 days, a blessing thanks to Noriko, a Japanese friend of Nakia’s now living in China’s New York, or the Paris of the east as Shanghai used to be called in the 1920s.  THANKYOU!!!  Without a friend here, we would’ve let the high living cost keep us away from such a metropolis.  As it is though, the last few days have allowed us to run errands, reorganize, and relax after the first month of riding. 

30 days, approx 1,600km Beijing to Shanghai including rest days.

As it turns out, our timing couldn’t have been better.  The day after arriving, I was biking through Shanghai with a couple of the others looking for a bike shop to purchase a hard-to-find trailer for our instruments (poor Drew has been single-handedly hauling both guitars and the erhu on the back of his bike with an industrial strength but finiky-bearing wheel), when my bottom bracket (crank bearings and cup) completely busted on the sprocket side, immidiately spilling the ball bearings and bits of crushed metal onto the moving street below.

After asking at several bike shops and street-side bicycle repair stalls, and being towed around town by Drew and Jim over several days on my pedalless bike by holding onto their shoulders to do so, I now do have a new bottom bracket, sealed bearings, for a very reasonable 70 yuan - US$9.00.  Beautiful.  I have a new appreciation for a place to put your feet while sitting on a bicycle seat…

And our newest addition to the FBR (Fueledbyrice) team: a kiddie trailer, or The Bandwagon (thanks to Adam’s quick wit naming), as it will be hauling not only the 2 guitars and er hu, but also my S. African bongo drum.  This trailer will enable us to trade off carrying the extra load our music requires.  I will be, however, a bit nolstalgic of riding behind Drew’s Beverly Hill Billy-style load, but I’m sure he’ll get over it faster than I.

One of the joys we’ve had while living with Noriko (besides a super nice shower) is having access to a kitchen, and an amazingly big and nice kitchen at that.  For these few days, oatmeal, dark and wheaty breads, and left-overs from home-cooked dinners the nights before have replaced our typical baozi (stuffed steamed buns) and zhou (rice porrage) breakfasts.  Two nights ago, Nakia and Jim headed an Italian mass cooking for Noriko as one small token of our thanks: Eggplant tomato, pesto pasta, homemade garlic-buttered bread - maybe nothing special in the West, but rare treasure in the Orient outside of the biggest metropoli.  Noriko has been incredibly patient with us and the dirt and disorder we’ve brought to her home.  Thanks again to such a wonderful hostess!

Although her apartment doesn’t quite fit under “Luguan,” I’ll put a couple photos in that album. 

We’re gearing up for setting off for the 2nd big leg of our journey tomorrow: a couple weeks to Changsha, Hunan province to visit Adam and Jim’s old Chinese friends from their days teaching there, and then on to Guangzhou & Hongkong for our friend’s wedding at the end of November.  But as usual, its not the destination that counts, especially on a trip like ours.

Today, why not bike instead of drive?

13 Responses to “Shanghai not Shainghai”

  1. Dusty Says:

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    You know it wasn’t too long ago when I was on the streets of Shanghai…I wish I were there right now. I would totally buy you a Tsingtao Pete! In fact, next time I see you I will buy you a Tsingtao no matter where we might be. Well on second thought you might be sick of that by now, so it can be your beer of choice, even an Erdinger if we can find it.

  2. Chris Wolf Says:

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    Good to hear that all of you have gotten a well deserved rest. We haven’t heard anything for a while and were wondering where you might be stranded. Take care on the next leg of your trip. Hope you find the town like you left it.
    Adam’s mom

  3. Netzy Says:

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    glad to hear everyone is safe, I was also becoming worried - hoping that Jo and Sever had sent you a get out of jail free card. do I need to send bike parts to anyone ??? I can send them to hong kong and they will arrive in 3 days. Pesto sure sounds good. Stay well and be safe. Jim’s mom

  4. Netzy Says:

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    Shall I send bike parts for riders to Hong Kong??? Were you riding two on a bike?? Did you have on your helmet too??? Just checking. Food sounds good. Jim takes after his dad - cooking all the time. Take care. NEtzy

  5. Tracy Says:

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    Cheers! Good to know everything, and I like garlic butter bread!
    By the way, did you get the chance to take a walk in those small allies in Shanghai?
    (Someone is playing guitar next door, reminding me of Shenmeshenme´s =) )

  6. Dan Says:

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    Glad to hear you guys had a nice break. Looking forward to checking up on the journey.

    Good Things,

    Dan

  7. Sandy Says:

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    Happy to hear that all have reached this destination safely. Much appreciation to Nakia’s friend for opening her home to the group. Good to know that your bike is repaired and road worthy again. Sorry to hear of Nakia’s visa situation and pray renewal is acheived quickly. Pleased to hear of the addition of the “bandwagon” to your gear and that now all can take a turn at pulling the load. Much gratitude for each essay that is added to the blog…though writing it is time consuming on your part, it gives us invaluable insight into what you are experiencing and I love feeling connected to the group through what you share.

  8. Matt Says:

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    Dude, 2 sweet things to share quickly.

    1) I found that they now make organic pop tarts out in MA. Well, they’re not actually the pop tarts brand, but they’re pretty much the same thing.

    2) I saw a biker wearing the best t-shirt I’ve seen in a long time. Nothing on the front, but on the back it said “Does this bike make my butt look fast?”

    Thought both would bring a smile to you on your journey.

  9. Patrick Says:

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    If “Shanghai is not Shainghai”, then “Qingdao is not Tsingtao”.

    2 days ago, Adrian, Kevin and I were quaffing a few Tsingtao beers over Happy Hour. Kevin mentioned that you guys will attend his wedding in late Nov. in Guangzhou. Better Fire Up, Big Red!! Not sure if you guys will head into Shenzhen, then HK. If you do, Adrian and I will roll out a barrel or two of beers literally for you guys in one of the clubs on the Shenzhen bar strip.

    Pls let me know. For partying purposes, the best time to arrive SZ is on the Sat. after Kevin’s wedding.

    If you need any help in HK, let me know.
    Patrick Leung in HK

  10. Billie Joe Armstrong Says:

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    Hello…Man i love reading your blog, interesting posts ! it was a great Friday

  11. Cristin Isbister Says:

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    Actually, this seems a pretty decent blog, and since I’ve contemplated entering the 21st Century, you’re a good source of advice.

  12. joan98 Says:

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    Less honking.  Cleaner streets.  Tall glass office buildings

  13. fate82 Says:

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    Less honking.  Cleaner streets.  Tall glass office buildings

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