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Bhutanese Refugee Camp stay - Nepal


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From the depths of slumber I begin to hear roosters announcing the arrival of the morning seemingly before it has arrived. Women are moving about, bringing their water jugs and pots to fill at the iron hand pump within 10 feet of my head. I stir and feel the mosquito net embracing me, everything so far assuring me its just another day as FBR. Looking at the woven bamboo walls plastered with newspaper letting the faint morning light in beyond my net, however, I suddenly remember that this is no ordinary home stay. I’m waking up in a Bhutanese Refugee Camp.

As I slowly get my bearings I remember that this all started yesterday morning at breakfast. I’d prayed that the Holy Spirit guide us to meet the people we were supposed to meet that day, hopefully kind people who wished to help us and from whom we could learn.

In the evening, we stopped to bathe and eat at a small town along Nepal’s main east-west Hwy 1 in the flat lowlands. We chose one of many small restaurant stalls that also had several hand pump wells out front. We quickly drew a crowd, curious to see foreigners, including one young man who eagerly pumped water for me while I bathed, and another young man who talked with Drew, named Santhos. When Santhos learned that we were planning to camp in a field that night, he invited us to stay at his church - he was Christian and his older brother was the assistant pastor. I’d learned from a boy who had biked with us 10km before town that there was a Bhutanese refugee camp nearby, and as we followed Santhos on his bike in the dark a bit out of town and up to what appeared to be a rural village, I realized that his church was located within that very refugee camp.

He led us into the center of the camp after getting approval from the guards. We put our bikes inside the woven bamboo church. Santhos’ older brother, Mouikumar Maga - the assistant pastor in his 30s - came out to meet us and the crowd of children and other onlookers we’d picked up biking and walking through the camp’s bumpy dirt roads. After we briefly introduced ourselves and our trip goals, he invited us to go back to his home for tea, and at our suggestion, music.

Walking between the homes in the camp

The momentum was rolling along and soon there we were seated in Mouikumar’s humble UN-funded, refugee-built bamboo house with swept mud floor and Drew, Jim, and I realized we didn’t know anything about their situation. As Mouikumar’s wife prepared tea, we began asking questions about Mouikumar and his neighbors in this camp.

“The political situation in Bhutan didn’t allow us to stay, so we came here [Nepal] in 1992 as refugees,” Mouikumar starts. He, the other 24,000 people living in this camp and the other 75,000 refugees living in other camps in Nepal are ethnically Nepali. Their ancestors immigrated to Bhutan in the 19th and early 20th centuries as laborers. Instead of casting aside their language and culture to assimilate, the Nepali people living in Bhutan tried to maintain their original cultural heritage including language, dress, and for some of them, their Christian religion. Over time and generations the Bhutanese government became more and more concerned about their lack of assimilation. The issue came to a head in the 1980s when the Bhutan government enacted policies seeking to catalyze the Nepali’s integration by not allowing them to study Nepalese in school and persecuting those who were Christian. When the situation was too dangerous in 1992 and they were clearly unwelcome in Bhutan, Mouikumar, his family, and many of his fellow Nepali-Bhutanese decided to flee across international borders to Nepal, at which point the UN High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) stepped in to help by drilling hand pump wells in their camps and providing funding for the refugees to build their simple mud-foundation, woven bamboo houses/huts.

Although preserving their Nepali heritage was important to these Bhutanese, Nepal doesn’t feel like home to them and moreover Nepal lacks the social and economic structures to absorb these 100,000 refugees. They and their parents and grandparents were born in Bhutan, making this a situation similar to asking German Americans who have kept their heritage alive to go back to Germany - in the end, they are still Americans and Germany is not their home. After 16 years of waiting with their real lives on hold, the US and several European countries have agreed to slowly accept small groups of families. Mouikumar’s older brother, Michael Thapa, was the senior paster of their church. He emigrated with his family to Atlanta, Georgia last year where he is continuing his ministry. Mouikumar and his family recently completed the lengthy UN interview process for resettlement and hope to join his brother in Atlanta in 4-5 months. Mouikumar’s neighbors are all on different schedules, but most will be waiting for the foreseeable future before they move out of their refugee camp.

In the pause in our conversation, everyone pondering their situation, them no doubt for the umpteenth time, and us for the first time, Mouikumar broke the uncomfortable silence and asked us suggestively if we brought instruments to play music. We grabbed the guitar, er hu, and bongo drum and he asked if I would open our music session with prayer and said he’d lead the closing prayer. I was struck with how clearly and fully my morning’s prayer had been answered, the more than mere coincidence that lead us to be in Mouikumar’s bamboo hut living room surrounded by his family and neighbors at that moment. I prayed and we played. Mouikumar plays guitar too, making for a nice exchange mixing secular songs with Nepalese and English praise songs.

Around 9pm, Mouikumar suggested that we wrap things up so the neighbors watching and listening to us could go to sleep. “The 8pm curfue has already passed in the camp, why don’t you sleep here instead of at the church.” Our sleeping bags, tooth brushes, and change of clothes were all back with our bikes inside the church, but it was a 10 min walk away and technically people weren’t supposed to be out anyway. “You can sleep here,” as Mouikumar lead us into his own bedroom containing two small double beds. “Oh no no, we don’t want to trouble you, and where will you…” Mouikumar cut us off insisting in a way we couldn’t argue with. After making sure we had everything we needed, Mouikumar and his wife left us - humbled - alone in their own room in their own beds in their simple home, complete with mosquito nets.

After waking up early, Mouikumar and his wife couldn’t send us off without breakfast. The chapati (flat bread) and potato curry was freshly home made and excellent.

Mouikumar (white R off cen) and his family in his living room

With brothers Santhos (red L) and Mouikumar, (white R) on the side of their church.

Outside and inside the refugee camp’s church, where they let us store our bikes over night.

With other Bhutanese refugees on the side of their church.

A big THANK YOU to Mouikumar, Santhos, and their family for the amazing hospitality! I sincerely hope that my fellow Americans will be thoughtful, aware, and empathize enough to extend half the welcome and hospitality the Bhutanese extended to us.

We were warmly welcomed into a refugee camp, shared music, and learned a people’s story we previously didn’t know about - quite possibly a perfect Fueled By Rice day.

For more information about the Bhutanese refugees’ story on the other side, settling in the US, see this related news article:

** From Bhutan to the Bronx **
Dumeetha Luthra meets some Bhutanese refugees who have arrived in the
 US from Nepal.
< http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/em/fr/-/2/hi/south_asia/7372916.stm >

82 Responses to “Bhutanese Refugee Camp stay - Nepal”

  1. Netzy Says:

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    Thank you for sharing your story and the kindness that you and your buds have garnered in a new country. Your prayers with the holy spirit were answered in whole. N

  2. Autumn Says:

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    JIMMY!!

    You look too skinny! Eat more!!! I’ll donate $ so that you guys can eat more…seriously, you all look so thin!!!

  3. Netzy Says:

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    I concur. I saw Pete’s legs and they are sticks with knobs… you all eat, and spend the money to eat, that way you will not get sick….

  4. Alice Spidahl Says:

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    Thanks, Peter, Very insightful. I read the related article with interest. I’m finishing up a Teaching English as a second Language class. It just confirms the need for teachers in this area. I hope I can help fulfill that need and feel motivated by your blog.
    I appreciate the information you all share. It is an education!

  5. Peter Ehresmann Says:

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    Netzy and Autumn,

    Thanks for your support!

    FYI, we ARE eating, me the most. I actually think I haven’t lost more than 6-7 lbs. The photo in the Bhutanese Camp blog makes me look thinner than reality I think. I’m encouraging Drew and Jim to eat more daily, but they refuse. They’re not sickly or too thin though either =).

    I think one big change in our diets since arriving in India/Nepal is very little meat, maily due to people warning us about getting very sick from the sub-continent’s meat, less meat around due to Hinduism, and the drastically cheaper price for a vegetarian diet. We do, however, usually have egg omlettes daily to make up for protein, and the dal (lentils) is also a protein source.

    Most of the time in the rural areas, we eat the standard food the locals eat, “Dal Baht”, or rice and dal, with a potato (and sometimes califlower) curry (vegetarian). Its the cheapest food budget we’ve had yet, at 30 Nepali Rupees (US$0.50; 4 Yuan) a person. Its all you can eat, so I usually have 2 or 3 heaping plates, while Drew sometimes has 2, and Jim usually 1. In Pokara and Kathmandu, of course there is plenty of western food for much more expensive prices, though we did find hamburgers for US$1.25 which is quite good.

  6. khagendrabistafrom vermont Says:

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    all bhutanese refugee come in america because of the this america is like hevan ok bhutanese iam very happy in this america

  7. khagendrabistafrom vermont Says:

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    iam also happy when i leeson this news

  8. khagendrabistafrom vermont Says:

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    thankyou for iom because of the when i live in nepal myfuture is not good in america myfuture is britinesss

  9. Liz Says:

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    I am a teacher of English as a Second Language in Massachusetts with a new student who is from a refugee camp in Nepal. He and his family recently resettled here and I was looking for images of the camps and information about the refugees’ plight in order to understand my new student better. He had told me about his bamboo house like the ones I see in your photos. I thank you for putting a good face on Americans overseas and making your experiences and insights available through your website. I have never before posted a comment on a blog until motivated to do so by your story.

  10. Nancy Says:

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    I am a volunteer/ESL teacher in Tucson, Arizona. We have now 38 Bhutanese families from the camps in Nepal that have settled here over the past year, and they continue to arrive weekly. I am working with many of them, helping them with this new culture, English and in finding new jobs. I just want everyone to know that this group of immigrants is wonderful. They are kind, warm, willing to learn, motivated. Many of them already know English when they arrive. I truly admire them. I am teaching them, however, I learn something new about life from them daily.

  11. Stephanie Says:

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    I was searching online to learn more about the Nepali refugees and I stumbled across your page. I began reading and when I saw the pictures I was amazed. I live in Atlanta, Georgia and recognize the men you are talking about here in your blog. I actually often attend their church services here in Atlanta. It is amazing to see the journey they have made. Thank you for sharing your experience.

  12. diwash bhattarai Says:

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    hi am diwash bhattarai from new zealand. when i was in nepal i used to live in khudunabari camp.am happy to see bhutunese in utube.

  13. manorath dhakal Says:

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    hi i am manorath dhakal from kentucky, USA. i came from eastern part of nepal i lived in bhutanese refugee camp beldangi 3. if u want to write me mail my email is manorath_dhakal@yahoo.com.

  14. Michelle S. Says:

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    I am so thankful that I found this blog. As a volunteer, I have recently taken on the task of assisting new refugees from Bhutan as they arrive here in Richmond, Virginia. Their spirit, willingness to share, and love of life are evident. I enjoyed hearing of your journey, and have a better understanding of where these families have traveled from and why. Thank you.

  15. Ram Dahal Says:

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    I am Ram C Dahal from Austin, Texas. I came to USA in April 21st 2009 as a refugee from eastern Nepal. Thank to International Organization for Migration for helping us to resettled in USA.

  16. bal basnet Says:

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    its good for me i i aslo want to do so

  17. bal b basnet Says:

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    thanks for ur photo

  18. bal b basnet Says:

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    i am in akron oh 46 st i came from nepal on feb 14

  19. shashi katel Says:

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    now i am here at dallas texas of america.i am so glad to pure down my ozing view in the form of comment.what i wanna to notice all that it better over here. so all of the bhutanese were highly welcome to came here who are really intrested,i my self is bhutanese before.now the new turn is appear which quit enough of challenges.as we know that a journey of thousand miles begine with single step. thanx a lot for your time towards me

  20. khagen katel Says:

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    life will change if the person’s thinking will change,about our bhutanese people those are in camp they are not yet knowing that what is life? and what going to be in future?so they have to change their thinking.if not they will not be regrate in the future and their new generation also not satisfied for their decesion,so we all do not have to regrate if u change our thinking.
    iam thankful to write my personal views regarding our bhutanese refugee of bhutanese camp.

  21. Tamar Says:

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    So interesting to read your post. Here in Atlanta I have come to know these magnificent people, some quite well. To learn about some local success stories, profiles, and projects, visit our volunteer group’s blog, Bhutan > Atlanta here http://bhutan-atlanta.blogspot.com/ (includes some videos).

  22. meg nath subedi Says:

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    i am glad to know my story in camp from foreigners.By this world will know our poor and hard life over 18 years.i from my side heartly wanna resettel in u.s and make my life better.I think all americans n world will support us in making our life successful.
    lastly,it is better to die than to become refugee, a homeless,poor……….(no words to explain).Thanks for jim n fans.

  23. Rick Andrew Says:

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    Hi,
    I came across your post doing research for a trip to the camps in Nepal. I am an associate pastor at a church in Utica, NY. Our city has become a major refugee destination, and currently many Bhutanese-Nepalis have been moving in. We have started reaching out to them, with about 20 coming to faith in Christ in the last month! Our lead pastor & I are going to Nepal in May, and I would be interested in any advice you have while we are making preparations for our trip.
    Thank you,
    Rick Andrew

  24. Dave Says:

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    I have also been in six of the seven Bhutanese camps. We enjoy great time with Bhutanese in Kansas and went to Nepal to visit with the families.

  25. हत्याको अभियोगमा बन्दी रहेका अधवैँशे र भर्खर किशोरअवस्था Says:

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  26. tulsi timsina Says:

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    I am very gald to be in America. It is very happylife to be in usa, all though it is good in camp too but we must have to look back to our future. we do not have much opportunity there if we are a good educated.But in America every one is equal to do there right.

  27. B .B Basnet Says:

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    Thank America for bringing me to America.I have never thought that i would be in america.

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    Sitenizi ve yazınızı çok beğendim . Bu siteyi Wordpress ile mi yaptınız , cevaplarsanız sevinirim.

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    bonjour !
    blog très interessant. néanmoins, je recherche une information. peut être pourriez vous me la donner : connaissez vous la date de création exacte des premiers camps de réfugiés? j’entends par camps de réfugiés de véritables camps, et non de simples hutes ou tentes.
    merci de me répondre, cette question est TRES urgente en vérité !

  30. gopal ghimire Says:

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    it is good to gave reffuge new,s

  31. gopal ghimire Says:

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    i am gave thank to american goverment because it take us nepal to america.in nepal no thing is good for young generation but now all thing are and also we can reached in our aim in this country america
    .

  32. gyan kumar mangar Says:

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    Hey! Iam gyan mangar from bel 3 sector B1, Now i am in New York city Rochester.I am glad to here in America,I wanna give thanks to International Organization Migration.

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    Hello everybody me is sukdev sharma.i am very glad with i.o.m (internatinal organization for migaration ) because it take me from nepal to usa.i think all are doing good in this new country.america is really good for the young generation like me, in nepal many are poor so they did not get to read after s.l.c (school leaving certificate)but in this america everybody have their owm right?

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    Really interesting blog post. Your post is very interesting. I enjoyed this article. This post is excellent! I have to say that after continually reading bad as in, same old material, little quality content, etc. article posts on other sites, it’s good to actually read something that has some thought put into it. It’s a pleasure to read good blog posts, especially after continually seeing rehashed %$!# that writers and bloggers are putting out nowadays. It’s always nice when I come across content that actually has value, I’ve been seeing a ton of subpar writing attempts recently. Anyhow, thanks again and I’ll check back regularly to see what else you have to offer. I’ll check back in the future to see what else you have up your sleeve. Keep up the terrific work! BTW, I like your site design, but your header image was only loading half way for me. P.S. Your header is messed up a bit in IE. The problem could be on my end but I thought you might want to look into that.

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    Hi, its me Bhim Bhujel recently from Fargo, North Dakota. im refugee from Bhutan. im glad to go through this blog and thanks for sharing.

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    It (this blog) is an eye by which the Bhutanese refugees all resettled in the third country can see each other, can share our new feelings in the new country and understand and share each others joys and sorrows. I am a Bhutanese Refugee who is in Colorado at present. During my ten months stay in the US i did see a lot of changes in the life of Bhutanese Refugee people. The enthusiasm they show, their courage in the new county, their courtesy can be appreciated. The people are creative, hard-working and easily adjustable in the new environment. The humility they show shows their greatness

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    Thank Australia for bringing us here in this develop country and share equal human right.

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    I feel glad to know all about refugee life from this blog and help me to recall my past refugee life.

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